
The very mid-century modern facade of San Francisco's new Paul Smith store at 50 Geary. Photo from www.paulsmith.co.uk
I attended the Paul Smith opening party at 50 Geary St. on Thursday, and for all the worry over who got in and out–a trio of profoundly mascaraed blonds in black busily womaned the door–the sheer number of people (about 600 Smith estimated) inside the London fashion guru’s new retail space put one in mind of a tube station at rush hour. In terms of fashion, the gents, peacocking in all manner of springy neckwear and colorful pants, far outstripped the decidedly more sedate ladies, and Smith himself looked dapper in a navy suit and pink open-collared shirt. The man of the hour moved through the crush with ease, if only because everyone wanted to shake his golden hand–though one did overhear quite a few mildly-panicked whisperers bleating, “He’s here?!?! Which one is he.” Joy Bianchi, looking like the lost bride of Le Corbusier in her signature thick black frames had little trouble finding the man, nor did Apple design don Jonathan Ive, a man whose sartorial stylings extend, thankfully, beyond iPod white. Willie Brown made nice with the swells, though his broad-shouldered woolen suit and peaked pocket square evoked the powerful torsos of the 40s and 50s more readily than the reedy chests conjured by Smith’s Swingin Sixties cuts.
Robert Wallace, a jet setting window dresser and interiors fixer in Smith’s employ aptly described the large store’s concept as mid-century modern in front with a nod to a rather more buttoned-up British clothiers, wooden wainscoting and all, in back. Vintage bric-a-brac sat alongside the pricey clothes and the break in aesthetic from front to back deftly alluded to the the two traditions out of which Smith’s aesthetic was born. Design aside, one of the most hotly-anticipated elements of the evening was of course the gift bags. A purple Paul Smith toothbrush was the most coveted swag, though the long arm of the New York media world reached even into the flimsy black totes handed out at the door: No one left without the new issue of Vanity Fair and a book of essays on the movies edited by Graydon Carter. But only to be a lonely outpost, so far from the center of the world. I’ve yet to use the toothbrush, but I did port my Paul Smith tote, a tossed-off thing at best, around Glen Park Canyon on a long walk today. It did the trick but is certainly nothing to write home about. Though apparently it is something to blog about. Hmm.

I got the purple one.
A truncated version of my thoughts on the party appeared in today’s San Francisco Chronicle in the Style Section. For a video of Smith wandering around inside his store, 7×7 has the goods.








