Paul Smith Party Recap

April 5th, 2009 § 1

The very mid-century modern facade of San Francisco's new Paul Smith store at 50 Geary. Photo from www.paulsmith.co.uk

The very mid-century modern facade of San Francisco's new Paul Smith store at 50 Geary. Photo from www.paulsmith.co.uk

I attended the Paul Smith opening party at 50 Geary St. on Thursday, and for all the worry over who got in and out–a trio of profoundly mascaraed blonds in black busily womaned the door–the sheer number of people (about 600 Smith estimated) inside the London fashion guru’s new retail space put one in mind of a tube station at rush hour. In terms of fashion, the gents, peacocking in all manner of springy neckwear and colorful pants, far outstripped the decidedly more sedate ladies, and Smith himself looked dapper in a navy suit and pink open-collared shirt. The man of the hour moved through the crush with ease, if only because everyone wanted to shake his golden hand–though one did overhear quite a few mildly-panicked whisperers bleating, “He’s here?!?! Which one is he.” Joy Bianchi, looking like the lost bride of Le Corbusier in her signature thick black frames had little trouble finding the man, nor did Apple design don Jonathan Ive, a man whose sartorial stylings extend, thankfully, beyond iPod white. Willie Brown made nice with the swells, though his broad-shouldered woolen suit and peaked pocket square evoked the powerful torsos of the 40s and 50s more readily than the reedy chests conjured by Smith’s Swingin Sixties cuts.

Robert Wallace, a jet setting window dresser and interiors fixer in Smith’s employ aptly described the large store’s concept as mid-century modern in front with a nod to a rather more buttoned-up British clothiers, wooden wainscoting and all, in back. Vintage bric-a-brac sat alongside the pricey clothes and the break in aesthetic from front to back deftly alluded to the the two traditions out of which Smith’s aesthetic was born. Design aside, one of the most hotly-anticipated elements of the evening was of course the gift bags. A purple Paul Smith toothbrush was the most coveted swag, though the long arm of the New York media world reached even into the flimsy black totes handed out at the door: No one left without the new issue of Vanity Fair and a book of essays on the movies edited by Graydon Carter. But only to be a lonely outpost, so far from the center of the world. I’ve yet to use the toothbrush, but I did port my Paul Smith tote, a tossed-off thing at best, around Glen Park Canyon on a long walk today. It did the trick but is certainly nothing to write home about. Though apparently it is something to blog about. Hmm.

I got the purple one.

I got the purple one.

A truncated version of my thoughts on the party appeared in today’s San Francisco Chronicle in the Style Section. For a video of Smith wandering around inside his store, 7×7 has the goods.

Ahead in the Count-Ballpark Style

April 5th, 2009 § 0

The authentic on-field San Francisco Giants cap.

The latest edition of my column, The Pocket Square (check out the archive here), is out in the San Francisco Chronicle today. I took up ballpark style, a tricky issue at times considering what a sartorial minefield sportswear can be. I’ll actually be attending the the A’s-Red Sox game a week from Monday at the Coliseum so we’ll see how the gents fare fashion-wise. I presume that straw boaters and spectators are out of the question, though you never know when Chicken John will show up. I went to a party at Self Edge last night where I got to chatting with the owner Kiya and it seems that he’s a massive A’s fan so here’s hoping that he and I get to take in a game or two this season. I’m so thrilled that the show starts today and actually have moderately high hopes for both Bay Area squads. Now if only my beloved Nationals could catch a break and maybe, just maybe, win 75 games.

Modern Day Warriors: Rush Resurgent

April 4th, 2009 § 4

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It’s been noted before that Canadian prog rockers Rush are having something of a vogue right now. A prominent role in the new movie I Love You, Man, a daffy little recapitulation of their track “Limelight” in this week’s Adventureland, and a recent spate of other nods (a montage set to “Tom Sawyer” in Chuck and an homage in Freaks and Geeks to “Spirit of the Radio”) have the power trio set as the not-quite-ironically-not-quite-sincerely loved rock punchline of the moment. Geddy Lee’s astoundingly high tenor, the pretentious lyrics and a general sense of brainy bombast have always set Rush up for mockery, and though this recent bit of winking love comes coated with more reverence than disdain, it’s starting to smack of manufactured nostalgia. Perhaps the best pop culture Rush sighting of late came on the Colbert Report, fittingly a program whose line between admiration and mockery is both razor thin and ever-shifting. That Pavement showed a similarly ironic reverence back in their 1997 song “Stereo” now feels somehow more genuine and truly unusual.

In the early 00s Styx’s “Mr. Roboto” had the same kind of kitschy clout, appearing in a Volkswagen ad as well as getting a shout-out in Austin Powers: Goldmember. The meme cruised through the Net, a hundred thousand dormroom-made mix CD’s before finally coming to ignominious rest where all things seem to die: The King of Queens. A quick look at the song results for Denis DeYoung’s sci-fi confection at AllMusic reveal that between 2003 and say 2007 “Mr Roboto” was suddenly de rigeur for any 80’s rock compilation, a clear response to it’s newly-found left-field cachet.

I fear that the Rush love, particularly for “Tom Sawyer,” is no fly by night affair, and with box office comedy pacesetters like Apatow and Co embracing them, it’s only a matter of time before Lee, Lifeson and Peart find that though the royalty checks are bit bigger, their cred as hard rock elder statesmen heads south. Though they’re far too sober, mercurial and well, Canadian, to ever go the way of Bret Michaels, shamelessly pandering to adolescent hard-ons, Rush is back in the limelight for as long as the joke lasts, even if it’s on them. Once again, they owe their fame to moving pictures.

Palace Intrigue: Kings

March 28th, 2009 § 0

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Jack, Michelle, Queen Rose, King Silas and David Shepherd from NBC's Kings.

I’ve watched the first two episodes of NBC’s Kings now, and I confess that I’m both intrigued and puzzled. Though the show is meant to be a kind of update on the Old Testament story of David and Saul from the last half of 1 Samuel, the overriding tenor of the show is less Biblical than Shakespearean. Ian McShane, who so masterfully played Al Swearingen on Deadwood, is back in essentially the same role, though his floridly profane oratory has been cleaned up for network TV and he’s traded in his frontier saloon for Shiloh, the rebuilt capital of his kingdom in this alternate history of the 20th century. He lords over his subjects and court as King Silas, the sometime protector sometime adversary of the transparently-named David Shepherd, a lily-white soldier who saved Silas’ son, Prince Jack, on the battlefield.

Though it’s still early in the goings, this Biblical retelling employs a cast of dozens (courtiers, bankers, generals, a pair of security guards out of the first scene of Hamlet) whereas David only really had to contend with Saul, his son Jonathan and his wife Michal. Kings aims higher, employing a kind of pan-Shakespearean architecture, aesthetic and verbal style, quick to embrace the soliloquy, overly-florid speech–Deadwood laid the groundwork for this device, though did it with greater panache–and a smattering of the Bard’s best characters: King Silas is an amalgam of Saul, Claudius and Falstaff (if only because, surrounded by characters each more sober than the next, he’s in sole possession of anything remotely resembling a sense of irony); Prince Jack is Jonathan and Prince Hal; Princess Michelle clearly some merger of Michal and Cordelia; Queen Rose a Lady Macbeth (sorry Rose, no mention of you in the Good Book so you’re all Shakespeare); and her brother the viperish financier a blend of Albany and Cornwall.

I confess that I’m highly curious about what will come next. I surely understand that in terms of storytelling and the foibles of the court no one did it better than Shakespeare. As a cribber of history he certainly pillaged existing tales to compose his masterpieces, but I wonder at what point the conceit will buckle. When will Biblical story cease to work within the Shakespearean structure? Though at the outset the premise has promise: Take a beloved Bible tale, filter it through Elizabethan drama, leaven with a first rate actor, McShane, and unleash it on the small screen. Perhaps the thing most likely to keep Kings from regicide is quitting before the formula bursts, though American TV has always had trouble with that. Though we like our politics democratic, our TV shows always aim for dynasty.

Virgin America Loves Stockhausen

March 27th, 2009 § 0

 

Composer Karlheinz Stockhausen, a queer mid-flight find.

Composer Karlheinz Stockhausen, a queer mid-flight find.

I flew to Washington DC last week on Virgin America. I love flying VA out of San Francisco International Airport because it leaves out of the International Terminal and one gets to skip all the turgid fits and halting starts of the rest of the airport. I also adore the little TV that awaits you in the back of the seat just ahead. Though getting all the channels over the course of a flight is a dicey proposition, the music selection is often pretty good–a solid mix of listenable pop and indie rock that won’t scare the parents.

As I went through my listening options I came across the occasional nugget, like a smattering for tracks by Frank Zappa including “Camarillo Brillo.” The classical music catalog was far smaller than the pop, and populated mainly by what you might expect: Mozart, Beethoven, Haydn, Chopin and Brahms. I was impressed to see a bit of Philip Glass, quite a bit of Steve Reich and Estonian composer Arvo Pärt. Boilerplate for 20th century music to be sure; when I met her, Washington Post classical music critic Anne Midgette called Pärt ”NPR approved” classical music, and not NPR in an “Isn’t Ira Glass just the coolest” sort of way. I liked her appending the derogatory “NPR” tag to classical music as well, particularly because I’m so fond of slighting NPR rock. Neko Case, Sufjan Stevens and Andrew Bird can all spend the rest of their lives playing to a festival of ever-rotating 40-somethings in Bennington, VT for all I care.

So I had Reich, Glass and Pärt to choose from in the adventurous listening category, but as I paged through my options I came across a wholly unexpected choice: Karlheinz Stockhausen. Difficult in an extreme sort of way, I’ve only really dabbled in his music. Gruppen was appealing, perhaps more so in premise than execution, but I found myself immediately drawn to what was there. Virgin America mustered only two or three tracks, as opposed to all of the Daniel Variations and Drumming by Reich, but nonetheless here was a chance to have a swig of the hard stuff free of charge. 

I later sent a note about my find to Alex Ross, the New Yorker’s classical critic, whose book and website The Rest is Noise which are, by my lights, required reading. He was pleasantly surprised at my find, but lamented being stuck on Continental, “which has yet to discover the twentieth century on the audio channels.” I can’t say that the Stockhausen, which pieces I can’t even recall now, was the most pleasurable listen, but good on VA for giving me the opportunity. Better yet, well done to the music curator who has clearly slipped one past the goalie here, while still serving all the Bloc Party, Brad Paisley and Alicia Keyes a wider audience craves.

I confess that after some Reich, Mahler and Tchaikovsky, Reich was especially pleasant for reading, though my book–A Nervous Splendor, on imperial life in Vienna 1888-1889–demanded Mahler. Eventually I turned to the music videos, a thin group whose only standouts are Beyoncé’s If I Were a Boy and Jennifer Hudson’s Spotlight. The things we do, and find, when ESPN isn’t available.

All Those Mornings…with the Post

March 21st, 2009 § 0

The 15th St. NW entrance to the Washington Post building.

The 15th St. NW entrance to the Washington Post building.

One of my favorite things about my two and half years of living in Washington DC was waking up every morning to the Post on my doorstep. It’s hard to imagine a finer paper, one that is as stellar a national and international journal yet still serves it’s community as well as the Post does. Sorry, New York Times, you’re a lousy local rag. So imagine my glee yesterday as I got a tour of the newsroom and chance to chat finally meet cultural critic Philip Kennicott, who has become something of a pal, in person. He toured me around the fourth and fifth floors before showing me his desk, where I met classical music critic Anne Midgette, whose forthcoming Post blog Classical Beat I await impatiently. The New York Times is lauded perpetually for its arts coverage, and though it’s often quite good, those who think the Post is just a vehicle for Tom Toles should really peruse the arts and culture writing.

As Philip and I wandered around the fifth floor, admiring a massive aerial photo of the city and stumbling across a large poster of Shirley Povich, longtime Post sportswriter and a cousin of mine by marriage, I even further lamented the fact that I no longer rise to the dulcet prose of Ghivan, Robinson, Applebaum and yes, dare I say it, bellicose old Krauthammer.

I’ve long been a Post devotee, but wandering around the offices and then chatting with Philip about music, the city and architecture in a nearby Caribou Coffee (a most Washingtonian of rituals) my love for not just the Post but for papers soared. Writing for the San Francisco Chronicle has been a delight and the prospect of my city without it is a deeply worrying thought. Any major city without a proper paper is a strike against it. Bad for the arts, bad for we citizens, bad for our democracy.

Caffè Corretto- A Match Made in Paradiso?

March 7th, 2009 § 1

My new Bialetti Moka and a bottle of grappa.

My new Bialetti Moka Express and a bottle of grappa.

I was talking with a colleague earlier this week about our mutual love of grappa, a potent digestif I only came to appreciate during a bone-chilling January week spent in the Veneto. She told me that when she was in Venice, also during a very cold January, she would drink caffè corretto literally “corrected coffee.”

The drink is a mixture of grappa and espresso, sometimes with sugar, though the sweetened version is usually drunk in the morning, she said, by very old men. I bought a three-cup Bialetti Moka Express the next day and aim to start working on my own caffè corretto . I’m nearing the bottom of a bottle of excellent Sarpa di Poli grappa I bought from Plumpjack in Noe Valley, so I may very well need to invest in some more.

In Italy there are variations on the caffè corretto such as sipping a few drops of grappa just after a sweetened espresso-ammazza caffè-or adding a bit of grappa to the last little bit of espresso left at the bottom of the cup-resentin. Commence experimentation!

First Rate Urban Hike

March 7th, 2009 § 0


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Drew and I took a wonderfully long walk today, hiking all over town in this glorious San Francisco weather. After browsing in shops, lunching in Russian Hill, having coffee at Stella Pastry on Columbus (yum!), and stopping into Fog City News for the latest issue of Wired and the winter edition of Antenna, our feet were sore and home we went. All told our urban hike was 5.5 miles. Exercise for the day, I’d say.

Relaunched dwell.com

March 7th, 2009 § 0

dwell.com relaunched Thursday morning and is the best the site has ever been.

Dwell.com relaunched Thursday morning and is the best the site has ever been.

I’m very pleased to announce that at long last the redesigned and better-than-ever dwell.com is up and running! Our web team has been hard at it for months, and under the gimlet eyes of online editor Sarah Rich and others it’s looking quite wonderful. Previous iterations of the site have been tough to search and felt like imperfect resources for those interested in modern design. As all of our content migrates onto the site and the inevitable glitches get worked out, dwell.com will become the premiere site for modern architecture and design.

I’ve been blogging quite a bit as part of my daily duties as an editor. Here are a couple of late that I think came off pretty well: This one is about how giant ferris wheels look to be replacing the requisite Gehry building as the way to architecturally re-brand a city; another deals with how architecture functions in the rather poor film “The International;” still a third appreciates John Updike as an architecture critic. Keep checking back as the site is only bound to get better!

Interviewed by Mr. Peacock

March 4th, 2009 § 1

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This Saturday, I sat down at Ritual Roasters Coffee with graphic designer and blogger Robert Hold, the man behind the blog Mr. Peacock for an interview. Oddly enough, he wanted to interview me, rather an unusual turn of events in this journalists’ life. We chatted for nearly two hours about fashion, our mutual affection for early British punk and how we both really like Washington DC. After I finished my coffee and he his chai, we went outside and Robert took my picture to run along with the interview on his site. Here’s the interview, which came out pretty well, I’d say, along with the photo of me (though my pants look a bit short when I put my hands in my pockets, I fear). Good job Robert, and I’m very pleased to have met you!

A photo of me at Valencia and Liberty taken by Robert Hold.

A photo of me at Valencia and Liberty taken by Robert Hold.